When a new restaurant opens up in a part of Boston, MA that has hitherto been a Korean food desert, it warrants the trip. Step in, Nowon, now open in the Seaport District. My research showed that the establishment is the third by Chef Jae Lee, from New York City ne Seoul, Korea. The internet hype was certainly there, for this “NYC meets Korean” fusion restaurant. We booked our reservation for opening night at 7:30p, half expecting the usual kitchen and service nightmare, and yet we were more than pleasantly surprised on all fronts.
Nowon offers a 7-course, fixed price “The Classic” Mixtape (then $55) menu, for us portioned for two, and it could not be a better sampling of the already limited menu. A 5 course “The E.P.” Mixtape was offered (then $45). We came hungry, and Nowon did not disappoint.
For the most part, the kitchen paced the delivery of the courses well, and the service staff was pleasant, engaging, and accommodating. The 90’s Hip-Hop music meets tiger-themed decor and low colored lights make for a trendy atmosphere, but perhaps a little loud for a more casual dinner. Space was tight, but hey that’s Boston. Rent is expensive and tables need to turn over!
So for starters, drinks. True to its heritage, Nowon offers soju (Korean rice alcohol) and Makku (a canned makgeolli, or Korean rice beer). There’s quite a trendy selection of inspired cocktails, wine, and beer. Surprisingly, they offered themed mocktails and nonalcoholic beer. Something for everyone, except, maybe, for traditional brown rice tea.
The first course was a black-sesame dressed Caesar salad. Simple in execution, but quite possibly over-dressed. Flavorful, for certain, and the portion size for two (as with all plates) was generous. We opted for the eggplant toast over the shrimp, and while not really reminiscent of Korean flavors, perhaps more Middle Eastern, it was quite delicious. These two courses were the most delicate offerings.
Then came Nowon’s take on Korean fried chicken, a la General Lee. The boneless chicken did appear to have been double fried in the traditional style. The fried chicken was smothered in a delicious, sweet-and-spicy gochujang (red pepper paste)-based sauce. It really was a lot of chicken, about a dinner portion’s worth from bb.Q chicken.
The dish I’d read about, the NYC chopped cheese sandwich meets Korean rice cake dish tteokkboki, was an interesting pleaser. Rice cakes smothered in ooey-gooey cheese with a little bit of beef and jalapeno, and a breadcrumb/parmesan topping really elevated the dish to junk food heaven. Again, liberally plated, and filling.
Tater tots, and cheeseburger, were the “main.” The tater tots came drizzled in a light honey-garlic sauce, and were pleasantly not soaking in it. Our half burger had two whopping double beef patties, with liberal cheese and their kimchi-inspired sauce. I could definitely have used more of the kimchi sauce, because we were there for the Korean, not so much the American. Nonetheless, as a NYC-Korean fusion, it hit the right notes.
Our dessert was the exceptional black sesame creme brulee, while other diners received a rice pudding. The caramelized sugar was just right, and despite how full we were, every bit needed to be finished. The black sesame came through, but it was kind of a re-use of the first course. Delicious, nonetheless.
For an opening night in a new city, Nowon executed. I wouldn’t say that Nowon is authentic Korean food, because that’s not what it’s driving at. Its least common denominator is American classics with a Korean twist. With that in mind, the restaurant delivers. I’m excited to see if/how Nowon Seaport expands to brunch/lunch and late night offerings. We’ll be back, but perhaps not with a dietary-restricted crowd, to try more of its menu. While denoted, a full gluten-free or vegan meal is a hard find here.
